Category Archives: FAQ Friday

FAQ:: Why RAW?

By Ravyn Stadick

It’s been over a month since my last FAQ post! Yep, sorry about that one. I have a few posts planned, and I didn’t want to wait until Friday for this one. I will try harder to do 2+ FAQ posts a month. If you have any questions: workflow, equipment, camera settings, client interaction, etc., just let me know!

I know I’ve mentioned RAW on my blog before. I’ve mentioned that I shoot almost everything in RAW. I’ve also had several questions about what RAW is … and why I use it. I thought I’d use this FAQ post to explain.

When I bought my first camera, the Nikon D90, I started using it on full auto (don’t judge me, please!). I quickly changed to aperture priority and eventually onto full manual mode. My first few sessions were shot with JPEG format. I was shooting the maximum size JPEG image, because that’s what I always did on my point and shoot (again, don’t judge). One day, I put my CF card into the computer to download the images, and there was nothing there. All I saw were a bunch of files ending in ‘.nef’. I put the card back into the camera and saw that some how my camera got set to RAW format. What was RAW? I checked my book and then Google and found out that RAW would quickly become my best friend when it came to my images.

All digital cameras shoot and store information … they don’t store a photo right away. When you click your shutter, all of the information (image, lighting, settings, etc.) are stored on your camera in a little file. If your camera is set on JPEG, the camera does the conversion for you and you can download these image straight to your computer, leaving you less room for correction if needed. On the other hand, you could shoot RAW, and download the information to your computer, leaving you the ability to do that conversion yourself, which results in the image exactly as you saw it in your mind when you were making the photo.

Some people are convinced that shooting RAW is a way for less than stellar photographers to present themselves in a better light. I think that’s the furthest from the truth. When I’m working with an amazing couple during their wedding day, the last thing I want to worry about is the white balance of the image … “Oh, this image is too blue. Please just stand there for a few seconds while I make the changes! Oh, but don’t move, because this would be the perfect shot!” … Those words won’t ever come out of my mouth. I am shooting for composition, lighting/exposure, and emotion. I would much rather download the RAW files once I’m home and adjust those tiny little white balance issues instead of missing the first kiss shot because I was adjusting my camera. I think RAW speeds up my workflow on so many levels. Even from shooting the session. I shoot full manual, unless you want to consider auto white balance, which are the recommended settings I would encourage others to try. Now that I shoot my Nikon D700, I only use JPEG format when I’m shooting for my personal photos. It actually does a pretty great job with color saturation and white balance while in RAW mode, that I don’t have too much to adjust on the computer. *Hopping off of my soap box now!*

Before you start shooting RAW, there are a few things you should know:

  1. RAW files are HUGE. When I saw HUGE, I mean HUGE. Like 10 megs, huge. Plan on investing in good memory cards … If you’re a portrait photographer, I think you could get by with 20 gigs worth of memory cards. Wedding photographers should have 60+ gigs of cards. RAW files are so big, because they contain a lot of data. It’s also important to note that it’s worth investing in a few external drives to store your RAW files on. If you plan on keeping them on your main computer, it will fill up quickly. I think I’m going to do an entire post about transferring and backing up files. It’s sooo important, and I am sure other photographers would agree that a consistent workflow is a key part of being a successful photographer.
  2. You will more than likely need to update your software before you can see the RAW files on your computer. Remember I said I could see the file information the first time I downloaded the raw images … but couldn’t see the actual images? This is because the RAW plugin for my version of Photoshop wasn’t updated. All it took was a simple click in Photoshop to update my software and that was it. Don’t freak out if you shoot RAW and then can’t get the images the first time you plug in your new camera.
  3. Plan on shooting at least 1 session with both JPEG and RAW. This is a little bit like sticking your toe in the pool to test the water. Most DSLR cameras allow you to save JPEG and RAW at the same time. To save a little extra room on your card, you might choose RAW + JPEG Small. This ensures that if you absolutely hate RAW (which I don’t think you will), you’ll have the JPEG images.

So now that you know the basics, I can show you why shooting RAW works for me.

Remember Mike & Sarah’s beautiful wedding in St. Joe, Michigan? Here’s one of my favorite images of Mike from the day. First, this is exactly what I see when I open a RAW file for the first time. It opens in Camera RAW for Photoshop CS4.

The image above shows the file exactly how it was shot. The main things I’m concerned with (before I open the image in Photoshop) are the Temperature, the Tint and the Exposure of the image. The three controls are on the right side of the screen.

Once I opened this image, I realized that it’s a little too cool for my liking. I think skin tones should be as close to natural as possible. People aren’t blue (well, none that I’ve seen anyway), so this image needs warmed up a bit. I do that by bumping the temperature control up just a bit (towards the yellow). I adjust the exposure a bit as well.

Original:

After adjusting temperature:

As you can see … the changes aren’t huge. It’s still important to try to nail exposure in the camera as much as possible. I always run a couple actions after the basic edit to put my own touch on the photos (not shown here).

Here’s one more example of when RAW was amazing. I recently did a session with Ashley, Addy and David. The day was BRIGHT and so we took some shaded shelter under the big oak trees at the park. When you’re under foliage in the bright sun, the light can tend to get a bit green. The following photo was one of the first shots from the day. I was adjusting my settings, and I got this shot before I found the sweet spot on my exposure. When I came home, and downloaded the images, I almost deleted this one. I had other shots that worked, but I LOVED this shot of them.

As you can see, it’s WAY to dark … and too green. I was able to bump up the exposure without the image getting WAY saturated or bright. Also, I bumped the tint control to the right to add a little more magenta to the image. The image went from unusable to great in a matter of 10 seconds.

I hope this makes sense. If you have any questions related to this post, feel free to ask. I’d LOVE to answer more questions too, so ask away!!

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FAQ Friday:: Camera Bodies

By Ravyn Stadick

J and I are currently on our way up to St. Joe, Michigan to shoot Mike & Sarah’s wedding. I have been so excited for this weekend for some time. Mike & Sarah are an awesome couple and I can’t wait to share their day with them! Woo hoo. The other reason I’m excited is that I get to spend a weekend with my hubby. St. Joe is a beautiful city. Thanks to our friend Brandon (who is housesitting for us), we get to spend the entire weekend there.

I’ve had several questions regarding camera bodies lately. Even though I’ve put more emphasis on lenses, the camera body is just as important when it comes to making an image. I don’t think I’ve ever really talked about the camera itself much on my blog at all. So here it goes. First of all, I’m a Nikon shooter, so that’s what’s on this blog. If you’re looking for some info about Canon lenses and cameras, you should check out my friend Amanda Pair’s blog.

Okay, so my first camera body was the Nikon D90. I used this camera on every session that you’ll see on my blog (except for miss Amarah’s cake smash).

The Nikon D90 is a great starter camera. At a price point of $900.00, this is a very affordable camera if you’re thinking about starting a photography business. I love the super big screen, and the buttons and dials are easy to use while shooting. The low light ISO performance is about a 4 or 5 on a scale of 10, which is fine for portrait photography, but not ideal for indoor weddings (which is the norm here in Indiana). I would definitely recommend this camera to anyone looking for an entry-level camera. I don’t mean entry-level as in ‘entry-level to cameras’, I mean it as a great entry-level camera if you’re starting your photography business. Like I mentioned, even with a great lens (50 mm 1.4), the ISO capabilities of this camera just aren’t up to par. If you’re going to be marketing yourself as a wedding photographer, this camera won’t do the job, at least not on its own.

Here’s where the Nikon D300 or D700 comes into play. The Nikon D300 has a few upgrades from the D90 that make it ideal for portrait photographers. One of the awesome features is the dual card slots. This means you could shoot RAW on one card and JPEG on the other … or shoot RAW on both cards if you’re second shooting … you can automatically hand the cards over to the primary shooter when you’re done, and you’re sure to still have a copy of the images for yourself. This is Nikon’s high end semi-pro camera. I even think semi-pro is a bit of an overstatement. The ISO performance of this camera has actually shown more noise at times than the D90 (it’s less expensive sister camera). If you’re stuck at the decision between the D90 and the D300, I would suggest the D90 … You could use the money you save to buy a couple great lenses.

I just upgraded my main body to the Nikon D700. I personally believe the D700 is the best camera on the market right now (as far as ISO performance goes. This camera can practically see in the dark. I can set the ISO way about 1000 without worrying about that pesky grain that was appearing in the images shot with my D90.

The other BIG difference between the D90 & D300 and the D700 is the sensor size. The D90 and the D300 have cropped frame sensors … whereas the D700′s sensor is full frame. Same as a 35mm camera. This means your images will have more to them (more on the comparison between the sensor sizes next week). This camera is a beast. It’s heavy and definitely substantial. It’s price tag is much higher than the D90 and D300, but I think it’s worth the price if you’re shooting weddings. After all, your clients are investing in you to create beautiful images from their day.

Of course, there are features I wish the D700 had (like HD video that the D90 has), but it really is an amazing camera. I have no doubt that between that camera body and the lenses I’ve invested in, that I can create images my clients will love.

Here’s a little peek at the ISO performance of the D90 vs. the D700. The first image is the D90 at 100%. ISO 1250. Do you notice all of those little dashes/lines? That’s noise. Imaging you’re creating a clients wedding album and you want to use the shot of the church for a 2-page spread … Chances are, at 100%, the image will be full of grain. Trust me, I’ve learned from experience.

Next is the D700. ISO 1250. Notice how the little lines are not really there? This is because the ISO performance of this camera is much better. It does a much better job at controlling noise.

If you’re thinking of investing in a DSLR with the hopes of starting a photography business … you’ll want to be sure you can control the camera. You’ll want to be sure you can change the aperture, shutter speed and ISO easily. Ask the sales associate to show you the ISO menu. How high can it go? If it only allows you to go to 1000, chances are, you won’t be able to create the images you want to with that camera (at least not in low light). Most importantly, just be sure you learn your camera. I was able to make the D90 work until I could invest in a better body. It might have not been the best camera Nikon had to offer, but my clients never had to know. What matters is that you’re comfortable with what you have and you make it work!

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FAQ Friday:: Monitor Calibration

By Ravyn Stadick

Happy Friday everyone! I am currently watching my little sister and J’s little brother entertain themselves with our dogs and a laser pointer. It is actually pretty funny, not gonna lie about that one. Our morning started with pancakes and a little bit of Mario Kart on the Wii. I could do this every day, especially the pancake part! Also, I wanted to take a second and say HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAD!!! I know he thought he was going to get that tear-jerker blog post today, but you’ll have to wait a little longer. Father’s Day will be a doozy, just a warning!!! I love you dad! Hope you’re birthday is wonderful!

Todays FAQ post is about monitor calibration. As a photographer, you want to be sure you’re delivering consistent images. Of course, there are several aspects to doing this: mastering your camera settings, choosing how you want to deal with different lighting situations, editing your photos in a similar manner each time. Another aspect of maintaining consistent images is being sure your monitor shows you an image that’s close to what your lab will produce when making prints. I use MPix Pro as my photo lab. Every order, every time. When I first signed up with Mpix, I ordered 5 prints from them to be sure I was seeing the same things on my monitor their printers were producing. The five images all had different characteristics: black & white, saturated portrait, high contrast, etc. This may seem like a pretty basic way to calibrate your monitor, but really, its the technique I find to be most accurate. I suggest that you order test prints at least once every month or two, and definitely order test prints before you send your first order to a client. These test prints can be given to your clients or you can keep them to use as decoration/advertisements in your studio or office.

If you’re looking for a more technical way to calibrate your monitor, you might want to invest in a device that will calibrate your monitor for you. I first used color calibrators and monitor calibrators in college when I was using large format printers for design jobs. It was then when I learned just how important color control is. A good monitor calibrator can run you between $200 and $400. I learned about the X-Rite monitor calibrator from this post by Melissa Jill. You stick this calibrator on the screen, and within minutes, it’s does its work and your monitor is ready to go.

The only issue I have with spending that amount of money on a calibration device would be that most of my work isn’t viewed in print form. It’s viewed online. There is NO way you can ensure that your images look great on everyone’s monitors. I heard a story of a photographer who charged $35,000 for a wedding he shot, and the client almost sued him when she saw the images on her gallery site. Her monitor was about 10 years old, and gave all of the images a green, fuzzy effect. She thought he had ripped her off. When I first started blogging, I noticed that my images looked great on my computer, but the prints were a little too dark. I am sure this is in part due to the brightness of my monitor. If you run the calibration device on your monitor and forget to adjust the brightness before, your images are going to look good on the screen, but then they will be way to dark in prints … and on other monitors.

Basically, test prints are your friend! It takes time to find a vendor you’re completely happy with, so be sure to get test prints from each vendor (as they are all different and so are their prints). If your lab offers color correction, be sure this option is disabled when ordering. Otherwise, they might correct your images even though you were completely happy with what you saw on the monitor. If you find an album company you love, be sure to have a sample album made before you order an album for a client. I would suggest editing your images with the brightness on your monitor turned 1 or 2 notches down from where you’re used to. This will result in brighter, more vibrant images when you’re clients are viewing them.

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FAQ Friday:: Getting Started, Continued

By Ravyn Stadick

**I know it’s Saturday … and FAQ Friday should be on Friday. Can you forgive me?**

We’re gearing up for a big weekend here in Indianapolis. Our city hosts the Indianapolis 500 race every May, and it’s always a good excuse to get together with friends and family … and have a great time in the warm sun! I’ll be away from the computer all weekend … I’ve earned it this week.

Today, I’m continuing my FAQ Friday post from last week. I covered the first 3 tips (of 10) for starting a photography business. I thought I would share the other 7 tips today.

#4) Learn Your Camera: I know this may seem like a given, but there are many ‘photographers’ out there who don’t know their cameras. It’s so important to understand the relationship between aperture, ISO and shutter speed. You need to know how to work your camera forward and backwards. Do you know what settings to use in a dimly lit room … Do you know what settings to use when you’re photographing a couple with a super-bright sun backlighting them? Sure, you could turn your camera on ‘Auto’, but your camera doesn’t have a brain … It doesn’t always know what you’re looking for in an image. Personally, I shoot on manual, spot metering. I use a single focus point and move it around to be sure the focus is always on the subject’s eye. I use the meter in the camera to set my shutter speed, and then I change my settings according to the image. I know what to do if the image is too dark (open the aperture … lower the shutter speed … crank up the ISO (last resort)). When I first started making photos, I would set my camera on aperture priority, which worked most of the time, but it still didn’t give me the control to create the images as I saw them in my mind. You know that big book that comes with your camera?? Read it! The manuals that come with your camera are full of great information … I think I’ve read mine about 3 times, and it’s taught me so much about my camera. Also, Google can be your friend. If there’s something you don’t understand … I can promise that you can find it online.

#5) Invest in Learning: I know that most people start a business to make money … but sometimes, you need to spend a little money in order to be successful in the long run. One the best investments I’ve made in my business (besides my equipment) was the Spread the Love Workshop with Justin & Mary Marantz. I attended the workshop at the beginning of 2010, and it totally got me inspired and pumped up for the year. It was an opportunity to spend a day with several other photographers that were working towards the same goal as myself. We shared and listened as Justin & Mary talked about their amazing journey. Workshops can be pretty expensive, but the information you’ll walk away with is invaluable. When looking for a traditional photography workshop, be sure the host will cover topics related to shooting and equipment … but more importantly, be sure they are sharing information about business infrastructure. After all, most photographers that offer workshops have successful business models, and when you’re first getting started, that information can be vital to your own business growing.

#6) Start a Blog: With the huge influx of photographers these days, it may seem like you’ll never be able to stand out and be successful. Why not try selling yourself … instead of just your photos? If you have a fun, funky personality, you should be advertising that. A blog is a wonderful platform you can use to promote your business and your personality. Your clients can stop by to see your most recent work, but if there is more than just photos, chances are they will stick around to learn more about you. My first blog was a free WordPress blog … and it was super-easy to use. At first, visits were minimal, but as I posted more, more people came to check it out. I could copy the link onto Facebook and Twitter, and it was a form of free advertising. The days of my free WordPress blog are over and now I have this blog you’re looking at. The images are large, and all aspects of the blog reflect my business (colors, logo, etc.). If you’re just starting, and you think a free template is too boring, you could try ProPhoto Blogs. They are pretty inexpensive, and they give you the control to be as creative as you’d like to be with your blog. Basically, your photos might be nice, but unless you stand out, why would anyone choose to work with you? There are always going to be other photographers, but there’s no one that can be you!

#7) Build Your Brand: Building a brand is much more than finding a name for your business and creating a logo. You brand is your business. It’s the service you provide to your clients, it’s the quality of images you deliver, it’s your style of shooting, it’s the feeling people get when they see your work. Of course, your style might change a bit as you get further into your business, but I would imagine that you want your customers experience to be a positive one, every time. Now that I’ve told you having a logo isn’t the most important part of your brand … you should still have one. Whether your business is basically your name (like mine), or a different name, you should have a logo that reflects your image. Of course, you can create this yourself, but if you’re better at creating photos, then it might be best to work with a graphic designer that can bring your image to reality. Think of your favorite colors, shapes you like, do you like simple?, what feelings do you want people to experience when they see your logo? All of these aspects will help a designer create a logo that will reflect you and your brand. Once you have a logo, this visual element should be throughout your marketing materials (business cards, price sheets, blog, etc.). Having your logo or your colors be a part of your business will give clients the assurance that you are a professional. Think of it this way: From the first business card you hand to a potential client, to the packaging in which you deliver their final images, everything should be quality. Basically, from beginning to end, you don’t want the clients to have anything from you that doesn’t remind them who shot their photos. Maybe next year, when they are going through their desk drawer, they will see your business card. They’ll remember the great service and professionalism that you exhibited … It could get you more business from them, and I bet they will refer business to you. Just a little plug, I do graphic design as well as photography, and if you’re looking for someone to help you with your logo/branding … I would love to help you!

#8) Be Organized: I feel like I’m the pot calling the kettle black right now. Being organized is definitely not overrated when running you’re own business, but I know first-hand that it’s easy to put things off and then forget about them. Organization is so important. Without it, every day business tasks can become chaotic, and that’s another way of getting burnt out on your business. I’ve definitely gotten better (rushing around the day before our tax guy was coming over was not fun, and I am pretty sure I still didn’t find all of my receipts for my expenses. Moral of the story … If I was more organized last year, I could have gotten a larger tax return, just saying!). There are the obvious places to be organized: Your camera case, your desk, files, etc. What about your workflow. Every session I shoot goes through the exact same steps from start to finish. I never start editing a session until I’m done with the previous, and I always know where to locate the files once they’ve been saved and edited. I’ll post more on my workflow on a later FAQ post. I keep signed contracts, receipts, and other important paperwork in a file cabinet so that everything is easy to find. All of my files are saved and backed up on two different external hard drives. All sessions are loaded onto online galleries for my clients to review. All important emails are saved and placed in folders … again, so I can find them easily. I have running spreadsheets that I record my expenses for the year, as well as spreadsheets that I can use to show what I’ve made during the year. This helps for tax time. I have a separate bank account for my business … and I only use it for business. All of these things help keep me organized. When you’re first starting out, you might not think it’s that important, but what about when you have 6 sessions to edit at once? Will you know where you are with each session? If so, you and your clients will benefit.

#9) Get Legal: This tip is pretty straight forward. If you’re going to have your business, then you should be recording all of your income … and you should be paying taxes. You should register your business name with your secretary of state’s office. This will ensure that no one else can operate under your business name, but it will also give you the option of opening a bank account for your business. Most photo vendors (prints, albums, etc.) will not work with you unless you’re official. Don’t try to fly under the radar … If you get caught, it’ll be a lot worse than just paying your taxes each year.

#10) Be a Part of a Photography Community: Since there are so many photographers out there, use it to your advantage. Meet other photographers in your area. Not only will you have new friends … but you’ll also have people to share and learn with. What happens when a client contacts you about shooting their wedding on a date you’re already booked? You really like this couple, and you don’t just want to turn them away entirely … Well, you can refer them to another photographer in your area. Not only have you helped this couple find an awesome photographer, you’ve also helped out your friend. On the other hand, you could be closed in and snobby. Believe me … there is plenty of room for these photographers and you’ll definitely encounter them, but wouldn’t you rather have a good reputation among your clients and fellow photographers. Not only is it beneficial to get to know photographers and vendors in your area … but there are so many online communities and forums you can join. I’m a member of the [b] school, and I love it. Whenever I have a question … I go there, and I have hundreds of photographers who can share with me and give me their advice. I learn about 2nd shooting opportunities and get togethers in my area. It’s great to be a part of a group of like-minded people! It’s inspiring … and of course, I love other photo nerds like myself!

Just to leave you with an image … Here are the newest additions to our family. My in-laws adopted these two little ones last week. Princess & Billy are so stinking cute … I’ll post a few more later, but for now:

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How To:: Creating Photoshop Actions

By Ravyn Stadick

Last week, I discussed my technique for creating my dynamic black & white images. Did you catch that post?? If not, you can check it out by clicking here. I promised I would share information about the actions I’ve created in order to save myself TONS of time while editing. The number 1, time-saving action is my Black & White action. Once I have a color image I’m happy with, I simply click the ‘black & white’ button, and the computer goes to work. Once it’s done running, the result is a complete b&w image that’s ready to save.

It’s pretty easy to create an action … believe me. If I could figure it out, so can you!

So let’s start with an image from Mike & Sarah’s engagement session. Here is the final color image before I converted it to b&w:

After I saved this image, I clicked my b&w action button and ended up with the image below. In less than 3 seconds, I have a b&w image … and I can move on to my next image. See how much time that saves?

To create a new action, you’ll need to open your actions palette (window – actions). You’re actions palette will more than likely look a little different than mine, as I’ve downloaded Totally Rad Actions to help speed up my workflow even further.  Chances are, you’ll see several actions that came with your original software. You can keep these, but you probably won’t use them.

Once your actions palette is open, there are two ways to look at it. Button mode is the pretty mode. It looks like this:

In order to create an action, you’ll need to switch to the list mode. Click the actions palette menu and uncheck ‘button mode’. Once you do that, you should see a long list of actions.

If you’ve never created one of your own actions, you’ll want to go back to the palette menu and choose, ‘New Set’. You can name your set something like “My Actions’, and it’s where you’ll keep all of your own actions. Now it’s time to create an action. Go back to the palette menu and select “New Action”.

Once your new action box pops up, you have several different options to chose from. First, you’ll want to name you action. This one will be named “Black & White”. To be sure the action ends up where you want it, be sure to select the correct set. Next, you can assign a function key as a shortcut for your action. For this example, we’ll use shift+F1. This means after this action is created, it can be run easily by hitting shift+F1 instead of clicking the button. Last, you can select a color for your button. This is yet another way to be sure your actions are organized and easy to find. Once you’ve set your preferences, you’re ready to record. Hit the ‘Record’ button (circled in yellow), then edit the photo like you would normally.

For this particular image, my normal editing would include desaturating the image (channel mixer) and then the little tweeks that are unique to my b&w images (see this post for a full explanation). Once you’re done making your changes, click the stop button (circled in green). You’re done! It’s that simple.

Like I said before, I prefer to keep my actions palette set on Button Mode. It’s easier to use. If you prefer to keep it in the list view/mode, you can run your action each time by selecting the action and then clicking the play button (circled in blue, above).

Once you’re action is created, and you’re back in button mode, you will see your final image. See the new little yellow button in the bottom corner of the actions palette? That’s the one we just created. The image is now ready to be saved.

Now, each time you have an image that you want to convert, all you need to do is click the little yellow button. It should take about 3-6 seconds, and that’s it! I promise this will speed up your editing time, and it will help to keep you from being burnt out.

I created some re-size actions as well. With one click, my images are resized and ready for my blog (with watermark). I did it by using the same basic steps from above.

Hope this helps! As always, I love feedback … and if you have any questions, be sure to let me know!

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